The disappearance of this restaurant from rue des Cascades remains a sore point with local inhabitants. The much-loved restaurant was forced out from the locale featured in the Simone Signoret film it celebrates by rising property prices, one more nail in the coffin of this unique ‘village’ in the 20th. Bravely, Marc and Genevièvre set up again on pretty Place Maurice Chevalier, which comes into its own in summer with terrace tables under the trees. There is a sense of elegy about the new Casque d’Or, but although the setting has changed the owners have brought with them their fabulous Auvergnate cooking, warm welcome and Ménilmontant atmosphere. Along with Le Baratin (3 rue Jouye-Rouve, 20th. +33 (0)1.43.49.39.70) and La Boulangerie (15 rue des Panoyaux, 20th. +33 (0)1.43.58.45.45) it remains one of three serious kitchens in the area. Utterly defeated by the portions, which would be a suitable follow-up to a day’s woodcutting, we loved the spicy pear, chestnut and blue cheese soup, the home-made terrine served with a fruity onion jam, a gargantuan steak topped with morilles and served with cheesy aligot, and the suckling pig, sublime in its orangey juice. The Reine Claude plums in their liqueur were just the perfect end to this meal, accompanied by spirited political debate with one of the regulars. AC