Made famous by the 2006 film Kurt Cobain About a Son, (released here on 26 Nov) Charles Peterson's photographs document the grunge music scene in 1990s Seattle. At the center of this scene, and of this exhibition, sits (or crowd surfs?) the memory of Nirvana's ill-fated lead singer Kurt Cobain, who galvanized legions of young malcontents. To document Kurt Cobain is to tap the zeitgeist of a generation. Peterson's soulful black-and-white photographs touch the core of this cultural figure and the nature of the subculture which he so embodied: frustration, vulnerability, irregularity, awkwardness, discontent, aggression, indifference. Though the bulk of the exhibition examines Kurt Cobain and his band Nirvana, also included are photos of seminal bands Sonic Youth and Pearl Jam. MO

In fashion, one day you're in but the next you might be out. That's the concept behind Comme des Garçons' string of pop-up stores, which have finally come to Paris after making a splash around the world in cities like Singapore and Warsaw. Two Comme des Garçons Pocket stores, one in the Marais (31 rue Debelleyme, 3rd. M° Filles du Calvaire) and one in Montmartre (17 rue La Vieuville, 18th. M° Abbesses. 01.42.72.15.12), have just opened and sell selected items from the fragrance, accessory and CdG PLAY streetwear lines. The storefronts are tiny and spare, tucked into non-descript side streets away from other major boutiques. JM

Just like it says on the tin, this new Abbesses tea-shop puts a modern spin on the age-old ritual: the cheery purple exterior and the bright, high-ceilinged interior show no sign of teatime stuffiness. Stocking over 120 different varieties of tea, with a focus on Japanese and Chinese varieties, the store also proposes thés parfumés including the sweetly seductive Casanova (mandarin, vanilla, cherry). Rounding out the offer: tea paraphernalia (the prototypical teapots and mugs, both in smart monochromes and kitschy cat-waving designs), in addition to tea-infused items, such as chocolate, incense, and mints. A perfect antidote to this city's excessive espresso consumption. SM

Quirky and romantic, Le Doudingue is perfect for lovers of any persuasion, with a funky jewel-box décor that you could only find in Abbesses. Sink into cushiony banquettes at the front for a tipple from its extensive list of martinis, or dine in the cosy raised section at the back with a dreamy view of the clouds and cherubs on the frescoed ceiling. The young staff are warmly welcoming and the food is just as delicious as the setting. The luscious Le Dingue cocktail of rum, mango, strawberry and orange whetted our appetites as we perused the 28€ and 23€ menus. The waitress was more than happy to accommodate our request for a starter and dessert and a main and dessert: a perfect warm goat’s cheese salad, and roast salmon that came with an aromatic smoking twig of thyme and vegetables in a filo pasty parcel. Then the raison d’être of our visit: the divine chocolate nems which ooze dark chocolate into a lake of crème anglaise. AC

This multi-label boutique slash gallery is a little off the beaten track, but a must visit when you're in Montmartre. In the white space, school chairs, old dentist paraphernalia and industrial pipes give an edgy unpolished vibe to the boutique. We love the Liye Van Rycke jewellery – silver feather pendants on chains and spindly silver bangles with cute engraved messages. Owned by stylist Roberta Oprandi and artist Bruno Hadjadj, the labels sold here include Marc Jacobs, Comme des Garçons and Isabel Marant, and they stock Dr.Hauschka beauty products. A good address for time-poor label lovers unwilling to compromise on style.

'Seared salmon fillet served on semolina with fennel and black olives, 23€ (+ entrée or dessert).'
Since Café Burq replaced an old wine bar in Montmartre a few years ago, it’s been a favourite with locals, and word-of-mouth has made it hard to get a table here on Friday and Saturday nights. The bar at the front of the restaurant makes you forget you’re waiting – there’s an excellent selection of French wines to sip on and before you know it you’re chatting away to the groovemeisters next to you. Softly lit with strips of coloured neon on the walls, the restaurant has a cool but understated chic, and the service is friendly and occasionally off-the-wall. But the point of all this is the food – it’s fabulous and worth lingering over. The menu, which changes every couple of weeks, has a traditional French base but expands beyond this with a modern inventiveness– think camembert roasted in honey or green beans sifted in garlic with slivers of chorizo. The desserts are sublime: don’t miss the pot de crème au chocolate. Book.