
A week dedicated to gastronomical delights. This year the theme is the construction of taste, the discovery of flavour. Around the country chefs, patissiers, winemakers, cheesemakers... participate in workshops to share their knowledge and philosophies. There's an enormous amount of activities for kids, but some more grown-up highlights include a workshop on the perfect risotto at chichi Italian restaurant in the rue Cambon Il Cortile (Sat 18 Oct, 10h30, 14h30 & 16h). The other great opportunity is a special all-inclusive menu, typically at around only 50€, proposed by over 40 restaurants in Paris, including Racines, L'Espadon (Ritz), Fogon, La Closerie des Lilas, Laperouse, Spring, Le Violon d'Ingres, Les Saveurs de Flora, L'Arpège... All details are online. Book now !
Pour cette nouvelle édition, la Semaine du Goût met à l'honneur la construction du goût, son apprentissage par la cuisine, la découverte des saveurs, l'importance des sens dans la dégustation d'un plat, le cheminement personnel dans la construction de son goût, les meilleures façons de cuisiner les aliments bruts... Chefs de cuisine, pâtissiers, artisans, vignerons font partager aux petits et aux plus grands le plaisir procuré par le goût, via des initiatives originales : une véritable chaine de transmission de leur savoir-faire. De grands cuisiniers se mobilisent dans les écoles, des tables étoilées proposent des prix très attractifs (Racines, Ritz, Fogon, Laperouse, Spring, Les Saveurs de Flora, L ‘Arpège...), et le Fouquet's organise son Afterwork du goût (mer 15 oct, 18h-21h), une redécouverte de la pâtisserie française par des chefs étrangers...

Deep in the heart of the 13th arrondissement, an intimate and mysterious festival unfolds: select guests whisper their secret password to enter, then huddle amongst lush cushions and roaring camp fires to sample the tasty gastronomic offerings of Irish chef Trish Deseine, sweetened by the aroma of fine whiskey... All right... it's not all that mysterious, it's just the latest idea from the Fooding crew. There will, nevertheless, be cushions and campfires and you will need a password to enter (available online a couple of days before each event) but apart from that this culinary experience is free and open to all (as long as you're one of the early birds!). The menu on offer takes its cue from partner Jameson Whiskey and offers a gourmet range of Irish treats including the island's world renowned beef, fine artisan cheeses, wholesome wheaten breads and not to mention those hot toddies. While you enjoy your free meal, you'll also be treated to the musical stylings of Peter Von Poehl (8 Oct), Revolver or Daddy and Me (23 Oct). Get there early. TM
Les Veillées Foodstock, un nouveau concept de festival intimiste et novateur qui mixe musique + food + style. Cela se passera aux Voûtes dans le 13ème, un endroit atypique dans le Paris secret. L'entrée est gratuite et ouverte à tous, enfin aux plus avertis et aussi aux plus ponctuels! Pour la première fois, environ 300 happy few pourront se trouver au coin des braseros/feux de camp, à déguster des tapas concoctées par Trish Deseine, en accord avec le whiskey Jameson, emmitouflés dans un plaid sur un transat ou un coussin, en écoutant l'aérien Peter Von Poehl (le 8), Revolver ou encore Daddy and Me (Rosemary de Moriarty et son père) en acoustique le 23. Un bon plan super quali, et inédit! Un mot de passe sera disponible sur le site du Fooding.

A no fuss, no frills Franco-Japanese eatery with a cult following. The décor would probably be best described as minimalist, though not in the pretentious sense, but rather in a carefree, undone kind of way. The animated open-kitchen is perfectly suited to the friendly Canal St Martin quartier, and weather permitting, the wall of windows giving onto the street are ideal spots for people watching. Fish lovers will be delighted with the array of raw or easy-over marine life on offer, plates of sashimi (around 18€) and grilled tuna (19€) are a favourite here. Committed carnivores can try the beef in a citronelle sauce, and allow the complimentary amuse-bouche of deep-fried marinated fish to go to their dining partners. The lunchtime menu is good value: 15€ , entrée + plat, plat + dessert, or the full works for 18€. FU
Un restaurant franco-japonais frais et vif.

Legion are the high-priced, inauthentic Tex-Mex establishments in Paris, and a quality Mexican restaurant (i.e. Anahuacalli) comes at a price. But for those of us used to eating this type of cuisine back in the States, where it's typically cheap and good, it goes against the grain to pay a premium. That's why Chiaapas is such a great find. Inexpensive and cheerful, this strange little establishment - located next to an aqueduct and sandwiched between the Gare de l'Est and Gare du Nord - proposes both Mexican and Indian cuisine. Staples such as nachos, quesadillas and tacos are on the menu as well as dishes like sincronizada, a wheat tortilla filled with cheese, guacamole and choice of cheese, meat or spicy peppers. Imported Mexican beers are a steal at 3.50€. AM
Un endroit etonnant qui propose de la cuisine mexicaine comme de la cuisine indienne. Et c'est bon!

Bad-boy UK chef Gordon Ramsay has taken up digs at the Trianon Palace, a newly renovated luxury hotel on the edges of Versailles, (where the Treaty of Versailles was drawn up in 1919, in fact). Ramsay has set up two different restaurants: the high-class Gordon Ramsey au Trianon, which seats 30 and offers a distinct fine-dining experience modeled on Gordon's eponymous, and 3 Michelin starred, London flagship restaurant. The more relaxed (and cheaper) brasserie La Veranda has a wonderful view overlooking the centuries-old trees and lush gardens of Versailles and offers classic dishes from breakfast through to dinner (count 50€ per head, including wine). It's quite a paradox for an Englishman (in fact, he's Scottish), and takes surely, quite some pluck, to come to this bastion of French tradition and luxury and dish up his modern interpretation of French cuisine back to the French. But his clientele are not snobby Parisians - who, as the Figaro food critic François Simon pointed out in his review, probably don't even realise that Versailles is a short taxi or train ride away - but rather the hoardes of British and American tourists who make the pilgrimage to Versailles every day.
Le célèbre chef Gordon Ramsay, plusieurs fois étoilé par le Guide Michelin, a inauguré son premier restaurant en France, au sein du légendaire Trianon Palace à Versailles. Gordon Ramsay, chef passionné et charismatique, élève de Joël Robuchon et de Guy Savoy, fait une arrivée attendue en reprenant la brasserie rebaptisée La Veranda et le restaurant gastronomique Gordon Ramsay au Trianon inspiré de son restaurant londonien 3 étoiles. ‘C'est la première fois que nous proposons un espace brasserie à côté d'un restaurant gastronomique. Cette possibilité d'offrir plusieurs options à nos hôtes est une opportunitétrès excitante'.

Apparently, man-about-town Mr Edouard Baer http://edouardbaer.blogspot.com/ doesn’t like to cook. So what he’s done is to take over a comfortable Bastille restaurant (ex Les Amognes) and create a relaxed bistro where he and his buddies can tuck into fresh and tasty Moroccan dishes. Malika et Fatima oversee the regularly changing menu, with set menus between 18€ and 22€, where you too could have the good fortune to sample the Pastilla of the day, a well cooked steak, slow-cooked veal with seasonal vegetables, and finish up, perhaps, with the orange-flower and fruit salad. Miam.
Le bistro du dandy Edouard Baer, fraîchement ouvert, lui ressemble: décontracté, bon enfant, mais gourmet...

Steak tartar with grenade potatoes, 17€
Raved about in the French press when ex-Bistral owner Arnaud Bradol took over last year, this 3-story wine bar/bistro located just off the place des Victoires was a pleasant surprise during a recent Sunday lunch. Its continuing success is due to a simple idea: the finest produce, simply prepared. A plate of delicious charcuterie, sliced on a vintage hand-worked machine started us off just right, followed by a starter of succulent tuna, rolled in sesame and served with an avocado purée. The highlight (which pretty much everyone in the place was having) was a superb steak tartar au couteau, made with top-grade beef from Desnoyer, mixed with parsley and aged parmesan, and served with roasted grenade potatoes. The pear tarte tatin with fresh cream was a delightfully decadent ending to a satisfying meal. AM

Open for more than fifty years, this Danish institution, located in the tourist mecca of the Champs-Elysées, has been a welcome gastronomic oasis on a street not particularly associated with good eating. Discreetly located upstairs from their more casual Flora Danica (with it’s great summer terrace), this fish restaurant is decorated in a sober style and furnished with many examples of excellent Scandinavian design. The kitchen is run by chef Georges Landriot (formerly of Prunier and Goumard) and has a Michelin star rating; it proposes a superb menu of pristine specialties including marinated herring, salmon grilled ‘unilateral’ style, and juicy reindeer steaks. AM
Cette institution danoise, qui existe depuis plus de cinquante ans, est située sur les très touristiques Champs-Elysées, où elle fait office d’escale gastronomique bienvenue, car on ne mange vraiment pas bien en général sur l’avenue. Discrètement installée au-dessus de Flora Danica, lieu moins formel dont on adore la terrasse l’été, ce restaurant de poissons est décoré sobrement, et meublé avec d’excellents exemples de design scandinave. En cuisines œuvre Georges Landriot (avant cela au Prumier et Goumard), qui a gagné une étoile au guide Michelin ; il propose un menu superbe, qui comprend des spécialités impeccables comme le hareng mariné, le saumon grillé à l’unilatérale, et de juteux steaks de renne. AM

This classic Parisian restaurant, which was suffering a slightly faded elegance, has been taken over by French superchef Ducasse, the only Michelin-starred chef to hold three stars in three different countries. Designer Patrick Jouin brought his sober, elegant touch to the charming fit-out. With it’s dazzling location, 125 metres above Paris, you can now dine in a world-class, contemporary style inside the most emblematic of the city’s monuments. Expect classic French cuisine with a modern flourish using exceptional ingredients: truffles, scallops, Limousin lamb, Bresse poultry, venison… Lunch is the affordable option, at 75€; for dinner expect to pay between 155€ and 190€ plus wine. Keep in mind the one to two month wait for a table.
Ce restaurant français classique, dont l’élégance était jusqu’ici quelque peu défraîchie, vient d’être repris en main par le grand chef Ducasse, seul chef à la tête d’établissements récompensés de trois étoiles dans trois pays différents. Le designer Patrick Jouin a apporté sa touche sobre et élégante à ce lieu charmant. Situé 125 mètres au-dessus de Paris, le restaurant à l’adresse épatante permet désormais de se restaurer dans un cadre contemporain et sophistiqué, dans le plus emblématique des monuments parisiens. La cuisine y est traditionnelle, avec une pincée de modernité, et les ingrédients sont de qualité exceptionnelle : truffes, coquilles Saint-Jacques, agneau du Limousin, poulet de Bresse, chevreuil… Le déjeuner, à 75€, est ce qu’on y propose de plus abordable ; pour le dîner, compter entre 155€ et 190€, plus le vin. Et il faut réserver un à deux mois à l’avance.

Poîlane, the legendary French baker, set up this space next door to their original bakery in the rue du Cherche-Midi to experiment with bar food. The dining concept and decor are elegant and simple – a top-notch tartine, or open-faced sandwich, made with their famous sourdough bread and served at long, thin communal tables. We went straight for the bargain lunchtime formula (12.50€), featuring a sultana laced salad to start, followed by an enticing choice of tartines – ranging from the simple (ham and cheese) to the downright decadent foie gras speckled with raisins, (+2€) and passing by sardines and olive oil with crushed salt, say, or chicken with garlic mayonnaise and capers. Top it off with a glass of wine or a bottle of water, then a coffee to finish, served with delicious Poîlane spoon-shaped biscuits. We couldn’t have been happier. FU
Le légendaire boulanger français Poîlane a ouvert cet établissement à côté de leur première boulangerie, rue du Cherche-Midi, pour tenter l’expérience de la cuisine de bar. Leur concept et leur décor sont simples et élégants : une tartine de haut vol faits avec leur fameux pain au levain, et servis à de longues et étroites tables communales. On a choisi la formule déjeuner très abordable (12.50€), avec une salade agrémentée de raisins secs, suivie d’un choix alléchant de tartines, parmi lesquelles certaines sont simples (jambon-fromage) et d’autres vraiment décadentes (foie gras et raisins secs, +2€), en passant par celles aux sardines et à l’huile d’olive et gros sel, ou bien encore poulet et mayonnaise à l’ail et câpres. On ajoute à cela un verre de vin ou bien une bouteille d’eau, puis pour finir un café, servi avec de délicieux boudoirs Poilâne. On n’aurait pas pu rêver mieux. FU